Japan 2019 Trip Day 15: Miyajima
Five-storied Pagoda
Miyajima
[Introduction]
Today, it will be a day trip to Miyajima and will be moving our hotel base from Osaka to Hiroshima. This is another day of super early wake up to check out of the hotel, and take one of the earliest shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima Station.
[Trip Report]
Day 1: Explore around Nagano
Day 2: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route
Day 3: Matsumoto Castle, Nakamachi District, Matsumoto City Museum of Art and night exploring around Nagano
Day 4: Nagano Zenkoji Temple and Kanazawa Higashi Chaya District
Day 5: Shirakawago
Day 6: Hida-Takayama, Hida-Furukawa, and “Your Name” location spots
Day 7: Kanazawa Omicho Market, Kenrokuen Garden, and Kanazawa Castle Park
Day 8: Explore around Osaka
Day 9: Osaka Shinsekai, Tempozan Ferris Wheel, Glion Museum, and Cosmo Tower Observatory
Day 10: Osaka Castle, Gozabune Boat, HEP FIVE Ferris Wheel, and Kuchu Teien Observatory
Day 11: Kyoto Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kinkakuji, and Yasaka Shrine
Day 12: Osaka Dotonbori, Kaiyukan, and Shinsekai
Day 13: Kyoto Fushimi Inari, Ginkakuji, and Arashiyama
Day 14: Okayama Korakuen, Okayama Castle, and Kojima Jeans Street
Day 15: Miyajima [current post]
Day 16: Hiroshima Atomic Bomb Dome, Peace Memorial Park, Peace Memorial Museum
Day 17: Yufuin
Day 18: Hakata Ohori Park, Fukuoka Castle Ruins, and Fukuoka Tower
Day 19: Nanzoin Temple
[Travel Date]
2019-10-27 to 2019-11-14
Anagomeshi Ueno
Hatsukaichi
[Hiroshima Station 広島駅]
After reaching Hiroshima Station, we left our luggage with the hotel reception since we can’t check in yet.
We quickly head back to the train station to take the local train via JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station; where we could take a ferry to Miyajima Island.
[Breakfast at Anagomeshi Ueno]
Anagomeshi Ueno is probably the most famous and traditional restaurant for Anagomeshi (Anago is Congel Eel aka saltwater eel) around Miyajima area, almost everyone will recommend this restaurant to try. Plus with their prime location, which definitely adds to their advantage.
They are located in between the Miyajimaguchi train station and ferry station (where visitors require to take the ferry to Miyajima Island).
TLDR; Worth a try if you are ok with the slightly higher price tag, as with most seafood dishes.
I would also recommend you to order an additional side dish of grilled Anago, so you can try both the OG taste and marinated taste of the Anago.
Do click on the link for the detailed review and photos.
Anagomeshi Ueno
Hatsukaichi
I just like this building with the clear blue skies
Hatsukaichi
Boarding the ferry to Miyajima
Hatsukaichi
[JR Miyajima Ferry]
After our brunch, we walked over to the ferry area. We chose the JR ferry to Miyajima since it will be covered under our JR Pass, so it’s a no brainer for us.
It takes around 10 minutes from Miyajimaguchi to Miyajima Station.
You can find the detailed timetable of the JR ferry over here.
Vast blue skies
Miyajima
Vast blue skies
Miyajima
Graced by good weather, it was also a comfortable and relaxing ride. Bonus points being able to look out to vast blue skies.
As we are living a concrete jungle named Singapore, it is very rare for us to be able to see such vast skies.
Approaching the island
Miyajima
Approaching the island
Miyajima
Mother deer
Miyajima
[Miyajima 宮島]
After coming out of Miyajima ferry station, we could already see some deers nearby!
We got excited upon seeing Japan's deers (as it was our first time), so we went on a photo taking craze haha!
Mother and kid deer
Miyajima
Uncle deer
Miyajima
Wife with uncle deer
Miyajima
Food plz?
Miyajima
Let me in
Miyajima
Concrete Torii Gate
Miyajima
Peace
Miyajima
Huge concrete torii gate marks the entrance to Miyajima main area.
Itsukushima Shrine
Miyajima
[Itsukushima Shrine 厳島神社]
The most iconic place in Miyajima; Itsukushima Shrine is a Shinto shrine best known for its “floating” torii gate.
Although at the point of the travel in Nov 2019, the torii gate is under renovations. I believe even as of the time of writing this post in Jul 2021, it is still under renovations.
But I digress, upon seeing such a huge crowd entering the shrine, giving myself excuses that I could save some money and not go in, since the iconic “floating” torii gate is under renovations too.
Hopefully the next time we visit Miyajima the renovations will be done!
View from the side
Miyajima
The iconic “floating” torii gate is under renovations
Miyajima
Shophouses
Miyajima
Walking away from Itsukushima Shrine but towards the shopping street, we reached around the more residential looking area.
There’s a nice vantage point to look over the area too.
Alley
Miyajima
Light autumn colours
Miyajima
Daily street life
Miyajima
Miyajima Omotesando Shopping Street
Miyajima
[Miyajima Omotesando Shopping Street]
Also one of the iconic sight in Miyajima, and lots of nicely made snacks and oyster restaurants. (We ate at one of the popular oyster restaurant too, which you will read and view below!)
We tried some fried momiji manju too, and then we made our way to have oysters for our lunch!
Shop selling fried momiji manju
Miyajima
Making of the momiji manju
Miyajima
Queuing to pay
Miyajima
Packaging
Miyajima
Selling other fried food
Miyajima
Price
Miyajima
We got the custard cream and lemon
Miyajima
You could recycle the fried momiji manju stick in this container
Miyajima
Wife posing with the recycle container mascot
Miyajima
Custard cream momiji manju
Miyajima
After a bite
Miyajima
Lemon momiji manju
Miyajima
After a bite
Miyajima
Kakiya 牡蠣屋
Miyajima
[Lunch at Kakiya 牡蠣屋]
Oysters are a must-try in Hiroshima, especially in the winter season as it is the peak season for Hiroshima oysters. Kakiya is one restaurant that is famous on Miyajima for it.
We are already anticipating our lunch while queueing outside, as we can smell the heavenly fragrance of oysters being grilled near the entrance.
TLDR; Grilled oysters are amazing, if you are first time dining in Kakiya do consider the Kakiya Set.
Do click on the link for the detailed review and photos.
Kakiya 牡蠣屋
Miyajima
Old school alleyway feels
Miyajima
[Five-storied Pagoda]
After having the awesome Oyster set meal for lunch, we make our way to the Five-storied Pagoda!
I like how it looks from the perspective when we are at the alleyway.
By the way, we really love the grilled oysters, on our next trip, we will just order a dozen of that instead!
Five-storied Pagoda from the alleyway
Miyajima
Five-storied Pagoda
Miyajima
Obligatory tourist shot!
Miyajima
Loving the sights and colours in Miyajima island
Miyajima
Wife trying to feed the deer
Miyajima
Wife playing with the free roaming deers while we are walking towards our next food destination, no we can’t eat anymore at this point. But more of buying back as a “souvenir” packs.
Iwamura Momijiya
Miyajima
[Iwamura Momijiya 岩村もみじ屋]
From my research, Iwamura Momijiya is one of the oldest shops, founded in the late Meiji era that sells momiji manju (bun shaped in a maple leaf), one of the icons of Miyajima.
They also keep it very traditional when comes to making their momiji manju, where many other stores experimented with other flavours, they kept to their roots and only make it with anko (adzuki bean).
TLDR; The momiji manju is not too sweet for a dessert, has a natural adzuki bean taste, soft and moist castella texture.
Do click on the link for the detailed review and photos.
Iwamura Momijiya
Miyajima
Iwamura Momijiya
Miyajima
Daiganji Temple 大願寺
Miyajima
[Daiganji Temple 大願寺]
After purchasing the momiji manju, we did a quick walkaround Daiganji Temple, emphasising on the quick.
Cause we realised we are short on time now, and we still have 2 areas we really want to go in Miyajima.
Donation box
Miyajima
More autumn sights and colours!
Miyajima
Daisho-in 大聖院
Miyajima
[Daisho-in 大聖院]
Situated at the base of Mount Misen, the holy mountain of Miyajima; it is a historic Japanese temple complex with many temples and statues.
Based on my research, you could even hike up Mount Misen from here, which takes around 1.5-2 hours.
There are 3 hiking trail courses up Mount Misen:
Daisho-in Course
Momijidani Course
Omoto Course
We only buffer Miyajima as a day trip, so we totally can’t do it this time.
Buddha Statue
Miyajima
See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil
Miyajima
Prayer wheels along the stairs
Miyajima
Direct angle of the stairs and prayer wheels
Miyajima
I like the look of this ornament on the rooftop
Miyajima
The iconic fiery maple autumn colours
Miyajima
Wishing area…? If I perceived the coins around the area
Miyajima
Tanuki Monk
Miyajima
Rakan
Miyajima
[500 Rakan Statues]
We are in an area of the temple ground with 500 rakan statues. All of them are wearing knitted caps, from what I read, the caps are offering given by people visiting the island.
Rakan
Miyajima
How I wish we can spend more time at Daisho-in Temple, we basically only see a small part of it, and never even managed to went in the many different temples due to time constraints plus the sun is going down.
For me personally, I feel calm visiting the place and a spiritual feel in this temple.
So with reluctancy, we have to move on to our last spot, which is Momijidani Park.
Wife at the entrance steps of Daisho-in 大聖院
Miyajima
Cute deer
Miyajima
While walking towards Momijidani Park, we saw an area with lots of deers congregating, and a local family feeding the deers with leaves. From our observation, we would think the mother is probably a staff or volunteer of the park.
So we also followed them to feed the deers leaves, it’s natural food so it shouldn’t be bad right!
It is so fun and in connection with the animals here, we spent so much time here haha!
Feeding the deers
Miyajima
Feed me more!
Miyajima
Really uncle looking deer
Miyajima
Close up of uncle deer
Miyajima
Kids feeding the deers
Miyajima
Wife attempting the same
Miyajima
Under the autumn tree
Miyajima
[Momijidani Park]
Took quite a few photos of wife the autumn foliage over here, other than that we didn’t take much photos of that area as there’s a big crowd here doing the same too.
So we are contented to just take in and enjoy the sights and colours with our eyes.
Fiery red
Miyajima
Bacon-wrapped sausages
Miyajima
Always time to pose with the food
Miyajima
Beautiful day
Miyajima
It’s near the end of the day trip, so we are making our way back to the ferry and travelling back to Hiroshima.
Overall, it is a great day with relatively great weather, and we left Miyajima island with a nice sunset while on the ferry.
Yagenbori Hassho 薬研堀 八昌
Hiroshima
[Dinner at Yagenbori Hassho 薬研堀 八昌]
Back to Hiroshima Station, we decided to try Hassho even though it’s at peak dinner hours aka most likely need to wait close to 2 hours. (That’s our benchmark waiting time for super popular restaurants during peak meal hours. If you come during off-peak hours or queued 15 minutes before opening time, the total time you might need to wait will be shortened to 30-45 minutes in general.)
Hassho probably is the most famous okonomiyaki restaurant in Hiroshima, having snaking long queues after nightfall even on a weeknight. Of course, they are serving up Hiroshima style okonomiyaki. We queued for 1.5 hours that night. FYI it is also a weeknight.
They also have a Bib Gourmand and Tabelog Hyakumeiten Okonomiyaki award for 2019 and 2018 to their name.
TLDR; Awesome piece of Hiroshima okonomiyaki aka Soba Nikutama in this context, and also unique double yolks eggs!
Do click on the link for the detailed review and photos.
Their signature Soba Nikutama
Hiroshima
Frying the eggs, notice the double yolks!
Hiroshima
[Closing]
Although this is a day trip, I will say a 3/4 day trip instead haha! Cause we first reached Hiroshima to drop our luggage at the hotel, then we took a local train to Miyajimaguchi, then which we can take the ferry from there to Miyajima.
But we need to have breakfast prior to taking the ferry, so by the time we reached Miyajima, it is already around 11am.
It is a rather chilled and relaxing time at Miyajima today, especially the autumn sights and feeding/playing with the deers! But we are just scratching the surface of what we wanted to see due to time limitations (sunset + make it back to Hiroshima). Some of those places (ie. Daisho-in Temple) we are like touch and go, and still many places (other temples or attractions) or activities (ie. hiking up Mount Misen) we didn’t get to see or visit.
To be honest, I think if you want to touch and go ALL of the mainstream places, it is really not possible to cover in a day trip either. Unless you just want to you know see the most popular few places only, or you start your day earlier say 7-8am to try to cover more, then yes maybe it is possible.
The next time we come back to Miyajima, we will opt for at least a night stay there so we can at least explore those places fully plus some more of those we never even get to see this time.
Tomorrow we will be spending a day in Hiroshima city itself!
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